With the Scenic Plus dining experience returning to the Coastal Pacific journey, my husband and I were excited to join the train in Picton for a sneak peek of this new and improved service before its official relaunch late 2023.
In my view, among the three NZ rail trips, the Coastal Pacific stands out for its incredible and varied landscapes, all within just five and a half hours of travel. Just when the train starts lulling you into a snooze, the train turns a corner, revealing yet another breathtaking view.
What is Scenic Plus?
We first heard about Scenic Plus from a friend, and then read about it in a magazine. The words 'sourced locally' and 'regionally inspired' jumped off the page. As foodies, we just knew we had to head south aboard the Coastal Pacific train to try it!
Great Journeys New Zealand describes the Scenic Plus dining experience as "a feast of scenery and seasonal dishes served to your seat'. All we needed to do, they said, was to sit back, relax, and savour the journey.
This is our experience of this new dining service.
First Impressions and boarding
Coming from Wellington, we boarded the Interislander ferry to Picton before joining the Coastal Pacific train. After experiencing the wonderful views of the Marlborough Sounds, we disembarked and joined the train just steps away from the ferry terminal.
Stepping aboard the train, we were welcomed by smiling crew showing us to our seats. Our first impression was the lovely table setting. Crisp white table cloth, polished silverware, a lovely small vase with dried flowers.
The crew immediately asked us if we wanted a glass of bubbles. Why yes, yes, I would!
As the train began to pull away from the station, the matre d introduced the journey to us with a Māori prayer to invoke spiritual guidance and protection for our travels.
Sipping wine along the vines
Taking the journey down from Picton it wasn’t long until we reached the impressive rows and rows of Marlborough sauvignon blanc vineyards. I can see why this region is renowned for being the best place to indulge in sauvignon blanc in New Zealand! It boasts an astounding 90 percent of Aotearoa's grapes.
On board the train, the crew timed the Scenic Plus afternoon sauvignon blanc tasting perfectly. We were able to sit back and relish this tropical drop while looking out at the vineyards. A great selection of Marlborough wines are available to choose from during the Scenic Plus dining experience. In particular, we enjoyed the Tohu wine and learnt it’s the world’s first Māori owned wine company. It was intriguing to learn Tohu’s commitment to Whenua Ora, their land wellness programme. They aspire to improve the state of the land and water beyond what the present generation inherited. This resonates with us, as we want our grandchildren and their grandchildren to appreciate Aotearoa as we see it today!
Off the beaten track views
We’ve driven State Highway 1 numerous times down the island to Christchurch and passed the Lake Grassmere (Kāpara Te Hau) Salt Plains without realising they existed!
The train tracks are positioned higher than the road, so the salt plains absolutely pop with a great hue of pink when travelling beside them. By taking the slow travel option, it gave us both an opportunity to reach for our cameras and take many photos.
What a luxury compared to one of us driving.
Through the audio commentary on board the train, we learnt that over half of the salt used in New Zealand is harvested from this lake, an incredible 70,000 tonnes of salt is extracted each year.
Regional flavours
As we made our way further south, the Coastal Pacific train verges towards the ocean and the landscape views change again. Soon, we were adjacent to the Pacific Ocean.
Drawing our eyes away from the coastal views to our plates, the Scenic Plus crew presented our table with a regionally inspired tasting platter. As the crew described each element of the platter, including Marlborough mussels, beef crostini and a mouth-watering fennel salad, we couldn’t wait to devour the delicious morsels in front of us.
The locally farmed mussels were a highlight for me, a delicate seaside flavour topped with cream cheese and horopito chutney.
The benefit of travelling with a companion is that when one person is not a fan of a particular component, we can share. I lucked out and was able to enjoy twice as many mussels! During the 1960s the Marlborough Sounds was discovered as a prime area for mussels to be farmed. The green lipped mussels are endemic to New Zealand and part of the kaimoana (food gathered from the sea) for Māori. To top it off, the platter was wine matched, so we could enjoy a selection of local Marlborough wines perfectly paired.
Open Air Viewing
The Great Journeys New Zealand crew were attentive with pointing out the next photography opportunities and provided expert advice of when we should step out onto the private Scenic Plus open air carriage. The carriage gives you a sense of being up close to the outside surroundings, you can breathe in and feel the Aotearoa salt air.
Playful Seal Pups
As we approached Ohau Point, positioned directly on the Pacific coastline, the New Zealand fur seal colony below was a marine animal highlight. Seeing the pups huddling into the senior seals was an adorable sight. Spotting them majestically swimming in the ocean was impressive compared to their awkward movements on the shoreline. The crew were fantastic throughout the journey, giving us a nod to prompt us to get our cameras ready.
The dining experience
Originally, we contemplated booking a shorter journey on the train and disembarking at one of the regions. However, when the next Scenic Plus course arrived at our table, we certainly knew we made the right decision to enjoy the full dining experience and stay aboard all the way to Christchurch.
It honestly felt like we were dining in a restaurant by having silver cutlery, appropriate glassware, and fabric napkins. The way the food was executed on the plate and how the crew described the elements of what we were being served was incredible.
One conundrum was selecting what main course to choose from. Various regionally inspired food and wine options were available like the Canterbury lamb option with wine jus, matched with Waipara Pinot Noir. This was definitely a 'melt in your mouth' moment!
Scenic Plus Seating
We knew travelling on the train would be a social affair so when we were seating with another couple at a table, we were delighted. This really added to the experience as we were able to socialise with like-minded travellers and, in turn, make new friends!
The Scenic Plus dining carriage has two different types of seating; table seating that hosts four, and paired seating that hosts two.
Regional Experiences
Our new travel buddies advised that they were going to do the return journey to Picton, but stop in Kaikoura on the way back to do the whale watching experience. We thought this was quite smart and gives us a great excuse to take this remarkable journey again.
When we reached Kaikoura, we were able to get out and stretch our legs while others departed the train. The views are pretty incredible even from the station. With mountains behind, and the ocean in front.
Back on board, the crew advised the dolphins often circulate the coastline during the summer months between November and March and can be seen from the train! They mentioned there's a rail package that includes the train, dolphin experience and accommodation - perfect.
Pavlova or Salted Caramel Cheesecake?
As we sweep through Oaro and Claverley with expansive ocean views and travel the impressive 21 metres high and 115 metres long Okarahia Viaduct we are pleasantly surprised by our last meal of the journey.
Another tough decision between the kiwiana favourite Pavlova topped with kiwifruit and mascarpone cream or the salted caramel cheesecake. The cheesecake reminded me of the amazing Lake Grassmere Salt Plains that we had passed earlier in the journey, so I was instantly sold.
Changing scenery
Towards the end of our memorable Coastal Pacific train journey, we rolled along the Canterbury plains. As the lush rolling farmland turns into flat plains lined with more vineyards, another opportunity to visit the open air carriage to take photos is in order. From river crossings to cows, sheep and the start of bustling city, it's a joy to experience life from the view of a train. As we traversed the braided Waimakariri River, we couldn't resist a wave to an adventurous kayaker paddling the blue water.
The final verdict
Overall, this Scenic Plus Dining Experience was undoubtedly all I'd hoped it would be and more!
We wined, we dined, we laughed. We made new friends, saw new places, and ticked a bucket-list item off. The food was exceptional, and we met such lovely people along the way between the crew, and other passengers in the carriage. I think the only thing we would have changed is that we would have worn stretchier clothes. We just about rolled from the train when leaving the Addington Railway Station in Christchurch.
Next on the agenda...the TranzAlpine Scenic Plus experience!
*As the menu is seasonal and Great Journeys New Zealand works with local farmers, the menu may vary from what was mentioned in this blog.
Tip for next time...
During our journey on the Coastal Pacific one thing we learnt was that we can pre-book and take our bikes, including e-bikes on the train.
In 2020 since the borders were closed we discovered more bike trails around Aotearoa and, similar to the train journey, has varying landscapes to discover. One area that is on the bucket list is the Queen Charlotte Track with glistening views of the Marlborough Sounds. Accessible from Picton where a water transport operator can take you and your bike on the boat to the track. That would save us from hiring a bike when doing the Queen Charlotte Track.
Explore Scenic Plus
Authentic flavours of rural New Zealand, inspired by the lands you see through your window